My earliest memories of my hair are associated with confusion, disappointment, and honestly, at times shame. Being mixed race and not knowing how to manage my hair texture was a really isolating experience. At the time, there weren’t a large array of products for curly hair, let alone the knowledge and expertise that is available today.
“Hi Byrdies! I’m Star Donaldson, Byrdie Sr. Editor. Today I’m talking with Dr. Francis, who sits on DevaCurl's Curl Council."
Having my mother detangle my curls once a week was something I dreaded, and eventually I convinced myself that my hair was difficult to manage because I couldn’t do it on my own. So, as soon as I was allowed I sprung for my first relaxer in effort to make my hair easier to deal with. But after seven years in the continuous cycle of getting touch ups, I felt trapped and out of touch with my own hair. I didn’t know what it would be like to go natural, and I was scared of figuring it out by myself despite my growing discontent.
Finally, in 2017 I mustered the courage to stop the cycle. Looking back now, going natural was one of the best and most freeing decisions I’ve made in my life. I really took a leap of faith, especially because I had no idea what my texture was like and didn’t know much about natural hair. I remember I researched and learned so much about curls and curl care from blogs and my friend’s advice. Knowledge was an essential part of my journey, and although I got the information I needed, it would have saved me so much time and effort if there had been a centralized trusted source I could rely on.
While information about naturally curly hair is more abundant than it was a couple of years ago, taking care of your curls can still be a big adjustment no matter your starting point. That’s why DevaCurl created the Expert Curl Council: a group of dermatologists, trichologists, and haircare professionals who know curls from 2a - 4c. They look at curly hair from every angle and have insights that can truly make a difference in the health of your hair. Below they offer their expert advice on everything from ingredients to at-home curl care. Read their thoughts on how to maintain healthy curls, and to help them live their best life.
Byrdie: First things first, how is curly hair different from straight hair?
Dr. Shani Francis - Board Certified and Holistic Dermatologist, Hair Growth Guru and Hair Loss Survivor: It’s really all about geometry. Curly hair grows from oval/ellipsoidal follicles, straight hair grows from round follicles. As the hair curves/curls more down the length of the hair, the transfer of natural oils from the scalp to the root end becomes more difficult, thus, curlier hair tends to be more dry (especially at the ends).
Byrdie: What is most important when it comes to curl care?
Dr. Wendy Roberts - Double Board Certified Dermatologist: What is most important with curl care is knowing that there are many types of curly hair and hairstyles. Educating yourself about curly hair and hair care will make your life easier, and your curls more fabulous.
Dr. Shani Francis - Board Certified and Holistic Dermatologist, Hair Growth Guru and Hair Loss Survivor: Listening to your curls. Curls are situational. Everything changes, too much of a good thing is not a good thing. Sometimes curls require protein, sometimes moisture, sometimes both and occasionally neither. A consistent regimen is a good start, but having flexibility to provide curls what they need most in that moment, is ultimately the best care one can provide.
Byrdie: How is skin care/dermatology related to hair care?
Dr. Shani Francis - Board Certified and Holistic Dermatologist, Hair Growth Guru and Hair Loss Survivor: The scalp is skin! Dermatologists should be part of every hair care conversation. We are the medical specialists of hair, skin and nails. In addition, the scalp and hair are interconnected. I like to describe hair as a plant and scalp as the soil. With poor quality soil (scalp), you cannot grow a healthy plant (hair). The foundation of healthy hair begins with the scalp.
Byrdie: Let’s talk about ingredients, why are silicones not recommended for curly hair?
Dr. Shani Francis - Board Certified and Holistic Dermatologist, Hair Growth Guru and Hair Loss Survivor: Most silicones are not easily water soluble and require strong detergents to be completely removed from hair. This can lead to product build up if silicones are not cleansed from hair properly. Additionally, when three is product buildup on the hair, it reduces the ability for it to get moisturized properly. From there dry hair can lead to increased breakage. Aside from damage to the hair, silicones can also cause your scalp to become inflamed and irritated.
Byrdie: What are your thoughts about parabens for curly hair?
Dr. Shani Francis - Board Certified and Holistic Dermatologist, Hair Growth Guru and Hair Loss Survivor: First, parabens are a scalp allergen and irritant. However, there is a great deal of misinformation surrounding parabens. For example, parabens have been detected in various plant and animal species such as barley, strawberries, blackcurrants, peaches, and carrots. There are differences in toxicological properties across the paraben category. Chemistry and testing can get complicated but the summary is that parabens, when used at their regulated low concentrations, are safe.
Byrdie: What about sulfates for curly hair?
Dr. Shani Francis - Board Certified and Holistic Dermatologist, Hair Growth Guru and Hair Loss Survivor: Sulfates are strong detergents. They may strip needed natural oils from curly hair; however, they can be necessary to remove product buildup. Stronger detergents tend to have higher pH, which can open the cuticles and lead to hair shaft swelling, protein loss, frizziness, and breakage.
Byrdie: What would you recommend doing for a healthy curl transformation?
Dr. Shani Francis - Board Certified and Holistic Dermatologist, Hair Growth Guru and Hair Loss Survivor: Embrace your curls and take care of your scalp. Make sure to get all underlying/undiagnosed issues confirmed and managed. Then moisturize/condition curls daily to prevent dryness and breakage. And finally trust the process.
Byrdie: As we head into colder months, how should our hair care habits change?
Dr. Shani Francis - Board Certified and Holistic Dermatologist, Hair Growth Guru and Hair Loss Survivor: There are so many important factors to consider in colder months. First, dry indoor environments require more frequent and intense moisturizing. To avoid dryness and breakage hair should avoid direct contact with wool and other cold weather adornments if possible. In addition, during colder months we tend to be less active, maintaining activity levels by moving exercise indoors is good for your health and for the health of your hair. Finally, vitamin D is key! Vitamin D levels diminish as daylight hours decrease and low levels of vitamin D can trigger shedding.
Byrdie: What is something that every curly-haired person should know?
Dr. Wendy Roberts - Double Board Certified Dermatologist: There is a perfect product regimen for your curls! You just have to find it. You too can have those curls that look like the curl model! When you get your curl routine down you will have the most sought after look and be unstoppable!
Dr. Dendy Engelman - Board Certified Dermatologist: Your authentic self is your most beautiful self. I have patients, friends, and colleagues who have “fought” their curls for years, only to discover that when they finally embraced their “curly self,” they actually loved it!
Byrdie: What are the most important types of products for healthy curly hair?
Dr. Wendy Roberts - Double Board Certified Dermatologist: Products that define, strengthen and moisturize while maintaining bounce-ability. The curly nation seeks undamaged hair strands, that have shine and definition. You want to avoid alkaline products which may lead to frizz and heavy thick products that may lead to wilted limp curls.
Dr. Dendy Engelman - Board Certified Dermatologist: I love hydrating, nourishing products for healthy hair. I always recommend that my patients look for products that are specifically formulated for curly hair.